०२ · Royal city
Bhaktapur
The city of devotees. The best kept of the three old Newar kingdoms of the valley.
Kathmandu Valley
Where
13 km east of Kathmandu
Altitude
1,400 m
Best time
Oct to Apr. Bisket Jatra in April
Time needed
A full day, ideally a night
Status
UNESCO World Heritage, 1979
Photograph by Nabin K. Sapkota, CC BY-SA 4.0
The story
Bhaktapur was the capital of the whole valley until the fifteenth century, and it still feels like a separate city. Its brick lanes open onto square after square of temples, wells and rest houses, and most of the people living here are Newar families who have farmed and made pottery in the same streets for generations.
Taumadhi Square holds Nyatapola, a five storey temple from 1702 and the tallest pagoda in the valley. Its stone stairway is guarded by pairs of wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins and goddesses, each said to be ten times stronger than the pair below.
The city is cleaner and quieter than Kathmandu because it raises its own money for upkeep through the visitor fee, and because cars are kept out of much of the centre.
What to see and do.
- ०१
Durbar Square
The Golden Gate and the Palace of 55 Windows, carved in black wood, with the Vatsala temple beside them.
- ०२
Nyatapola and Taumadhi
Climb the guarded stairway at sunset and watch the square settle below.
- ०३
Pottery Square
Potters throwing on hand-spun wheels and pots drying in rows across the brick.
- ०४
Juju dhau
The king of curd: buffalo milk yogurt set in clay bowls. Buy it from the shops near Taumadhi.
Adapted from a photograph by Bikram Pratap Singh, CC BY-SA 3.0
Before you go
What to know.
Foreign visitors pay a city entry fee at the gates. Keep the ticket, it covers the whole day and can be extended.
Stay overnight to see the squares after the day visitors leave.
Bisket Jatra, at Nepali New Year in April, fills the city with chariot pulls for nine days.
Next place
Pashupatinathपशुपतिनाथ